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Clean the paint and rust off of the side of the anvil showing in your picture. That is usually the side that the manufacturers stamped the logo into, most smiths were right handed and they worked the anvil with the horn to the left, so the logo was on this side so everyone could see it. It has the same form as a Hay-Budden but they were stamped with the anvil weight in pounds and I don't see a stamp on yours.

Clean it and look carefully, most of the time the logo is stamped so faintly that it's hard to see. If it's a Hay- budden it will have a serial number stamped on the left front of the base, looking from the horn end. If it is an HB and has the serial number I can give you an approximate build date from Postman's book, ' Anvils in America'. I just looked at your link, I didn't see any marks or serial numbers. You need to clean it with some paint remover or an electrolysis bath and find any and all markings. Many people made ' American Pattern' anvils so you have to do a little looking for identifying marks.

I have been told by several collectors that a good general rule in the northeast for anvils was $1/lb and $.50/lb for vises. Ive honestly never bought an anvil because I inherited one and rarely use it, but it is pretty accurate, and I have bought plenty of vises for that or less. Not very difficult to do at auctions/flea markets until you get to the larger sizes (200+ lbs), and the best part was when I downsized from ~15 vises to the two I have currently - doubled my money on craigs pretty quickly. Yep, I have a 55lb Chinese-made anvil, it makes more of a 'clunk' than a ring. I expected as much though.

That's because it's made of solid cast iron. There are cast iron anvils that have a steel face plate that don't ring but they have good rebound. I have an old Vulcan that's like that. A ringer is made of wrought iron with a tool steel faceplate or is solid tool steel. The Blacksmiths refer to those Chinese anvils as ASOs, or ' anvil shaped objects. Beat it around too much and the bondo will start cracking. They are not forging anvils but they will work for straightening valve cover flanges and bent nails and stuff like that.

That's because it's made of solid cast iron. There are cast iron anvils that have a steel face plate that don't ring but they have good rebound. I have an old Vulcan that's like that. A ringer is made of wrought iron with a tool steel faceplate or is solid tool steel. Enigma Band Free Download. The Blacksmiths refer to those Chinese anvils as ASOs, or ' anvil shaped objects. Beat it around too much and the bondo will start cracking.

They are not forging anvils but they will work for straightening valve cover flanges and bent nails and stuff like that. If they're cast iron they don't ring because they are made of grey iron. The cast iron ringers are ductile iron. We use this test every day at work to check for poor ductile. I did some sand blasting on the side today and was pleasantly surprised to find some markings! Around the 0 it says 'Solid Wrought' The numbers are the English Hundredweight System. Peach Texture Hack Mkwii Rainbow there.

So, this one weights 349lbs. I'll get it one the scale some time to see how close it really is. Here's a picture from an anvil forum that shows the type of markings a bit clearer. I havent found any other markings yet. I'll probably do some more work on it tomorrow.