Read through these instructions in advance so you're not stuck leaving a window open as you go out for a tool or parts. • The basic pieces you're working with are the window sashes (usually upper and lower frames for one or several window panes each), vertical cylindrical weights with a loop at the top, sash cord, pulley wheels, lower wood pieces affording access to the side weight travel paths, and in some cases, metal guiding strips that keep the window on a fixed track. • Windows will vary in some details, and these instructions describe replacing the bottom sash, but the same principles apply to replacing cord on an upper sash also and can be adapted to your window's particulars. This is a layman's guide but written from experience. Purchase sash cord measured to match your original or to roll well in the pulley wheel. This might be 1⁄ 4 inch (0. Widi 4 0 Keygen For Mac. 6 cm) or for a larger window, 5/8'.

• It must be cotton or cotton with a nylon core, because if you use nylon, it will jam up unexpectedly in the pulley wheel after you've completed the insulation, leaving you unable to close the window without cutting the cord. • (The same applies to flag cords on poles with pulleys, nylon cords can jam there too). Life The Game Online For Free No Download on this page. Don't worry, the cotton should last for decades. Start preparing the sash.

On each side inward from the window there are normally two vertical trim strips to help keep the window sash gliding in place and reduce drafts. • If the sash does not run along any metal guides at its sides, use care so the sash doesn't fall during this step. • Score any paint on their forward edges with a sharp point to minimize flaking and pry them off with a paint scraper and small pry bar or screwdriver. • Then raise the sash to maximum height on its normal path and drive temporary screws sideways into the wood directly beneath it and/or in front on each side to hold it in place. If there are metal edge guides that the window slides along (similar to a T cross-section), remove the screws holding each vertical metal guide; you may have to bend one or two, but if the bending is minimal, this should not be a problem.

• The bottom strip will not need to be pulled, though if bent, it should be straightened with pliers so the sash seats properly when closed. • Replacing these guides is annoying but can be done; keep the screws from it handy in a baggie or cup. • In an unusual case you might have to remove 2' or so of one side by hacksawing it, but hopefully you can simply pull it down and out once all screws are removed. Ideally you should only have to remove one guide in order to remove the window. Remove the screw. There will probably be a lower wooden piece on either side to give you access to the weights. It may be held in at its top with a screw; remove the screw.

Weights + scrape sash friction points + replace sash cords & weights + oil. Are essential for a well-functioning window, the sash lock clamps the. Attach the new cord to the sash with nails. While resting the sash on the window sill (H), feed the cord over the pulleys and down into the channel within the window frame. Knot the cord on to the weights through the access ports, as before. The cord length is correct if the sash weight hits the top of the channel when the sash is fully down.

• The piece will probably not yet pry out willingly, however; you will have to score and pull toward the center the wooden strips outward from it that retain the sash at the exterior. • This should free up your lower side wood pieces enough to remove them. If you damage the wood a little it should still be usable, but try to pull those back strips out a little and keep any splintering minimal. Take out the weights on each side, which might be 5-8 lb cast iron solid vertical rounded cylinders with a loop at the top.